Champagne J. de Telmont
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| Industry | Champagne house |
|---|---|
| Founded | 1912 |
| Founder | Henri Lhôpital |
| Headquarters | 1, avenue de Champagne Damery |
Key people | Ludovic du Plessis (CEO) Bertrand Lhôpital (cellar master & head of viticulture) |
| Parent | Rémy Cointreau |
| Website | champagne-de-telmont.com |
J. de Telmont is a century-old family champagne house[1], founded in 1912 in Damery Epernay. The house produces a range of champagnes and wines which possess the designation Champagne AOC and Côteaux Champenois AOC. A champagne house steeped in traditional craftsmanship and committed to transitioning to organic agriculture[2].
Since 2020, the house is part of the Rémy Cointreau Group, which acquired a majority stake in J. de Telmont.
History
The story of the house begins in 1912 with Henri Lhôpital, and four generations[3] following in tow.
The Four Generations
After the 1911 Champagne Riots, wine-grower Henri Lhôpital decided to take a step further: rather than just supply grapes to the local champagne houses, he began to produce his own wine, under his name.
In 1914,first World War breaks out, Henri joins the ranks of the French army. Henri returned afflicted by the War, although alive, to a Champagne region which itself had suffered from the conflict. Henri died in 1937 and his son, André Lhôpital, became cellar master and head of the champagne house. Second World War loomed and André, like his father, was called in by the army. He joined the second regiment of the ‘Cuirassiers’, the oldest surviving cavalry regiment in the French Army. At the time, many French nationals were taken prisoner by the Germans, however André managed to escape from the enemy. He returned to Champagne, where his wife Mathilde had kept the champagne house and the family café, “Café du Commerce”, in Damery afloat. André got back to work to develop his father’s legacy and baptised the brand: ‘J. de Telmont’ in 1947, inspired by the name of one of the family’s vineyard parcels. Serge, André and Mathilde’s only child, interrupted his studies and returned to work alongside his parents. With his son Serge, André expanded the family estate to 22 hectares and diversified the J. de Telmont range. The women of the family, Mathilde and her daughter-in-law Lucette were also very involved in all aspects of the house, from bottle labelling to managing the commercial transactions and financials.
In 1968, the family moved their headquarters to the current premises in Damery, Damery, near Epernay, at 1 Avenue de Champagne. In 1983, André passed on the reins of J. de Telmont to his son Serge and later died in 1997.
Serge was a technically savvy cellar master and worked very hard to maintain the legacy of his father. He was very well respected in the region and occupied the role of Deputy Mayor of Damery and Mayor of Damery for 18 years.
In 1999, Serge handed the house over to his children, Bertrand Lhôpital, who became the new cellar master and head of the champagne house, and his sister Pascale, who had been involved in the family business since 1983, thus perpetuating their family’s legacy. While respecting the artisanal know-how passed on to them by previous generations, Bertrand and Pascale began the conversion of their vineyard towards environment friendly methods which lead them to receive an organic certification for all the J. de Telmont-owned parcels in 2017, making J. de Telmont one of the first champagne houses to receive this certification.
In October 2020, French family-owned spirits group Rémy Cointreau became the majority shareholder of the house. The group believed in the ambitious organic conversion plans for the vineyards[4], along with Bertrand Lhôpital who remains cellar master and heads up the vineyards of J. de Telmont. Today, 30% of grapes harvested are already certified as organic or in the process of conversion.
"Gloire au Champagne"
Henri Lhôpital was known as one of the pioneers of the champagne riots, which started in Damery. The riots initially started when local virtuous winegrowers such as Henri revolted against champagne houses who wished to source their grapes outside of the champagne region, after their vineyards had been ravaged by phylloxera. Henri wrote a cantata, “Gloire au Champagne”, which enjoined regional winemakers and traders to maintain their virtuous practices, so that champagne would uphold its high standards of quality[5]. The cantata was performed during a concert in Damery in April 1992, to commemorate the painful moments of the beginning of the century[6]. Following the riots, the basis of an official champagne appellation started to take shape as well as stricter regulations, such as the obligation to use grapes exclusively from the Champagne region.
The Knight's Helm
The helm is the chosen logo of the house accompanied by the motto “Nec pluribus impar|Nec Pluribus Impar” (‘like no other’). The knight’s helm was replicated exactly from the coat of arms of André Lhôpital’s battalion during World War II and naturally became the distinctive emblem of the house; chosen as a tribute to André’s legacy and a reminder of the house values: courage, loyalty and humility.
Rémy Cointreau Acquisition
In October 2020, the French, family-owned spirits group Rémy Cointreau announced that it had acquired a majority stake in J. de Telmont[7][8][9]. The arrival of the Rémy Cointreau group marked a new starting point for the house: the brand will now be established internationally, while maintaining the focus on developing sustainable winegrowing.
Telmont is currently chaired and managed by Ludovic du Plessis, a firm believer in the importance of sustainability and who has spent his career acquiring genuine expertise in high-end champagne and spirits. Ludovic was formerly Executive Director of cognac house LOUIS XIII (owned by Remy-Cointreau) for six years. He now leads the Telmont house as an intrapreneur within the Remy Cointreau group. The ambition is to develop the Telmont brand while protecting its master craftsmanship in champagne and stepping up the focus on organic agriculture a time when only 2,9% of champagne vineyards are certified today[10]. The production is overseen by Bertrand Lhôpital who remains the head of viticulture and cellar master of J. de Telmont. The house will thus remain true to its motto, ‘Nec pluribus impar’ – ‘Unlike any other’.
Organic approach
The House has been engaged in an environment-friendly approach for several years. 30% of grapes harvested today are already certified as organic or in the process of conversion. The acquisition by the Rémy Cointreau Group will be a step further towards organic agriculture, at a time when only 2,9% of champagne vineyards are certified as organic production[11]. The ambition of the house is to be as environment friendly as possible.
The wine production
The vineyard
J. de Telmont estate cultivates 22 hectares of vineyards, mainly in Damery, on the right-bank of the Marne River, primarily on clay-limestone soil), where three main grape varieties grow: Chardonnay, Pinot noir|Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The production is overseen by Bertrand Lhôpital who is the head of viticulture and cellar master of J. de Telmont. The house produces eight different crus from its vineyard and has been working with local wine growers who have supplied the house with quality grapes for decades. The Telmont estate is cultivated without any use of chemical phytosanitary products and 30% of the grapes harvested today are already certified as organic or in process of conversion.
The winemaking process
Bertrand Lhôpital is the current cellar master of the house and his assistant cellar master Aurore Guerlesquin works alongside him. Time, the richness of the terroir and ancestral wine-making know-how are the fundamentals that allow the elaboration of J. de Telmont wines:
- Hand-riddling, ageing on natural cork and manual disgorgement are some of the processes still in use for a few, selected J de Telmont wines,
- The wines are aged both in stainless steel tanks and oak barrels, followed by a bottle ageing between 3 and 13 years depending on the cuvées,
- J. de Telmont prefers longer ageing on lees to enhance the expression of the wines and obtain very fine bubbles.
The wines
J. de Telmont offers a range of champagnes, a still wine and a Ratafia. The collection notably includes a cuvée from their organic-converted parcels, with no added sulphites[12].
The range
The Classic Cuvées
- Grande Réserve Brut : Champagne Grande Reserve Brut is the result of a subtle marriage of three grape varieties and a blend of several years. Beautifully balanced, it combines richness, fruitiness and freshness.
- Grand Rosé Brut : The colour is raspberry pink with light salmon reflections. The initial nose reveals citrus fruit notes and the tasting notes detonate against the taste buds as if biting into a Morello cherry. Powerful yet subtle, with a long finish.
The Vintages
- Grand Vintage Brut : When nature generously offers a harvest of exceptional quality, it deserves the best handling possible. The wealth of qualities found in a champagne produced with the grapes from one single great year makes it ideal for ageing. This is the case for Grand Vintage brut.
- Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut : This Blanc de Blancs is the result of a blend of renowned Chardonnay crus, and is the result of one, single great year. It stands out for its pale gold colour, finesse, lightness and fruitiness.
The Prestige Cuvées
- Cuvée O.R. (‘Ordonnance Royale’) 1735 Brut Vintage : A result of the house’s imagination, O.R. 1735 cuvée, combines all the know-how behind a great champagne through the selection of terroirs, and the expression of Chardonnay grown in the best Grand Crus, slowly aged in the cellars with a natural cork.
- Grand Couronnement Brut Vintage : Made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, this cuvée was created using Côte des Blancs Grands Crus Villages. This cuvée is aged a minimum of 10 years in the cellars.
The Originals
- Cuvée "Sans-Soufre Ajouté" Brut : This cuvée is produced with no added sulphites and with the finest grapes from the vineyards, matured with the utmost respect for the environment.
- Cuvée Léger Dosage Blanc de Blancs (extra brut) : A selection of Chardonnay grapes from one single harvest, balanced in freshness and maturity.
The Heritage Collection :
- Champagne Héritage 1969 Blanc : Deep gold colour, and long-lasting foam with very fine bubbles. The initial nose reveals aromas of plums and eau-de-vie fruits, later developing into chocolate notes. The mouth tastes mocha and chocolate notes with a hint of dried fruits, hazelnut and walnut. Length, richness and freshness.
- Champagne Héritage 1975 Blanc : The foam is long-lasting, the colour is deep gold. The nose reveals notes of stewed fruits, quince and cooked raspberries. The tasting notes have the same aromas of stewed fruits as well as honey. Long and fresh finish.
- Champagne Héritage 1976 Blanc : Deep gold, almost honey-coloured and refined. The nose reveals fig, dried fruits and ripe wheat aromas. The mouth fills with rich and generous hints of gingerbread notes. Round and long finish, a well-balanced wine.
- Champagne Héritage 1985 Blanc : Gold colour, long-lasting foam and fine bubbles. The nose reveals floral aromas, red fruits notes (raspberry, cherry) and syrup notes such as honey. The tasting notes divulge slightly smoked stewed fruits and dry fig. Generous, rich and round finish.
- Champagne Héritage 1985 Rosé : Pink, almost salmon colour. The nose reveals strong candied fruit aromas and hints of raspberry liquor. In mouth can be identified notes of honey and spice (gingerbread), which transform into mocha aromas. Elegant wine with a great freshness.
- Champagne Héritage 1986 Blanc : Intense golden colour. The nose is straight and intense, with spicy aromas of white pepper and liquorice. The taste buds reveal dried fruit aromas (apple, quince) as well as lemon. Very fresh finish.
- Champagne Héritage 1990 Blanc : Pale gold colour. Floral aromas on the nose (rose), and a light smoky sensation. Smooth intensity on the tongue, floral aromas are revealed. Fresh finish.
- Champagne Héritage 1992 Blanc : Intense gold colour. The nose identifies cherry and raspberry aromas, followed by nuts and chestnut aromas. Great tonic acidity. Complex and rich flavours of mocha, leather and quince. Long and very fresh finish, this wine may still have great aging potential.
Ratafia de champagne
Made 100% with Meunier grapes. Ratafia de Champagne, elaborated in oak barrels with the « Solera|Soléra » method initiated 20 years ago. Dark gold with copper coloured reflections. Light aromas of plum with wooden notes. The finish is elegant and oaky.
Awards
| Cuvée | Awards |
|---|---|
| Grande Réserve Brut |
|
| Grand Rosé Brut |
|
| Blanc de Blancs 2009 |
|
| Blanc de Blancs 2010 |
|
| Blanc de Blancs 2012 |
|
| Blanc de Noirs |
|
| Grand Couronnement 2002 |
|
| Grand Couronnement 2006 |
|
| Grand Vintage Brut 2006 |
|
| Grand Vintage Brut 2011 |
|
| L.D. Extra Brut |
|
| Sans-Soufre Brut |
|
| O.R. 1735 2004 |
|
Wine tourism
At the estate, J. de Telmont offers a range of tailor-made experiences based on a shared passion for champagne: from tasting still wines and pairing foods with vintages, to private champagne workshops enabling guests to discover the harvest and the grape picking processes[15]. Currently, workshops include ‘The Soul of Champagne’, ‘Champagne over the Years’, ‘A Prestige Moment’ and ‘Harvest Day’.
J. de Telmont workshops and visits are available via various online platforms[16] or via the house directly[17]
Further readings
References
- ↑ Fradet, Dominique (2011). 1910 en Champagne. Chronique d'une révolution. Fradet.
- ↑ "Rémy Cointreau Acquires Century-old Champagne House J. de Telmont, Steeped in Traditional Craftsmanship and Resolutely Committed to Organic Agriculture". Bloomberg. 16 October 2020.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ Alban, Gaella (June 2020). "" Champagne J. de Telmont, sa belle histoire et ses atouts gustatifs "".
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "Rémy Cointreau acquires century-old champagne house J. de Telmont". 16 October 2020.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "" C'est aujourd'hui grand jour de fête / Grand jour de fête pour les vignerons… " ("Today is a great day for celebration / A great day of celebration for winemakers…")". Le Réveil de la Marne. 21 February 1911.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "Issue n°441". Journal de la Confédération Musicale de France. August 1992. p. 25.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ Cougard, Marie-Josée (16 October 2020). "" Rémy Cointreau fait son retour dans le champagne avec J. de Temont "". Les Échos.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ Ménard, Philippe (22 October 2020). "" Cognac : Rémy Cointreau revient dans le champagne "". Sud Ouest.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "" Rémy Cointreau s'offre un champagne artisanal avec un 'formidable potentiel' "". Capital. 16 October 2020.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "Champagnes Biologiques". October 2019.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ ""Le champagne commence à se mettre au bio"". 23 December 2020.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "J. de Telmont, Brut Sans Soufre ajouté". La Revue du Vin de France.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "THE MEDALLISTS FROM THE CHAMPAGNE MASTERS 2020". The Drinks Business. 20 November 2020.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "10 champagnes classiques". Le Figaro Vin. 22 November 2020.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ Seo, Juyoung (June 2017). "Touring France's Champagne Houses: Six Of The Best". Forbes.
{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "Champagne J. de Telmont".
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ↑ "J. de Telmont Tastings".
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
External links
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