Roger Baxter-Jones

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Roger Baxter-Jones
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Died8 July 1985
CitizenshipUnited Kingdom
  • Mountaineer
  • skier
  • alpine guide

Roger Baxter-Jones was a British mountaineer, skier and alpine guide.

He was an early pioneer in Himalayan alpine style ascents of 8000m mountains and a guide in Chamonix. His notable Himalayan ascents include Jannu, Makalu (unsuccessful), Shisha Pangma, Broad Peak, K2 (unsuccessful); as well as routes in the French Alps.[1][2][3]

His Doug Scott's ascent of Broad Peak was the subject of the 1984 film Himalaya - 8000 mètres sans oxygène by Jean Afanassieff.[4]

He died on 8 July 1985 aged 35 while guiding a client, when a serac collapsed on the north face of the Triolet.[1]

The Doug Parker and Roger Baxter-Jones Memorial Scholarship was established at the American Mountain Guides Association to honor his memory.[5]

In the media


  1. 1.0 1.1 Nunn, Paul (1986). "In Memoriam" (PDF). Alpine Journal UK: 283–284. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  2. Scott, Doug (1981). "Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt, Makalu II Ascent". American Alpine Journal. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  3. Scott, Doug; MacIntyre, Alex (24 Nov 2016). Shishapangma The alpine-style first ascent of the south-west face. Vertebrate Publishing. p. 250. ISBN 978-1-911342-18-2. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  4. "Himalaya - 8000 mètres sans oxygène". MNTN Film. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  5. "The Doug Parker and Roger Baxter-Jones Memorial Scholarship". American Mountain Guides Assocation. Retrieved 22 October 2020.

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