Ludovic de Saint Sernin
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Ludovic de Saint Sernin | |
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| Born | Ludovic de Saint Sernin 1992 France |
| Citizenship | French |
| Occupation | Fashion designer |
| Years active | 2017–present |
| Employer | Ann Demeulemeester (2023) |
| Known for | Genderless fashion, sensual designs, founder of Ludovic de Saint Sernin |
Ludovic de Saint Sernin (fr; born 1992) a French fashion designer.
de Saint Sernin is known for his sensual genderless designs which explore sexuality and identity, challenging preconceived ideas about gendered clothing. His label was nominated for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers after debuting two collections during Paris Fashion Week in 2018.[1] He was also a nominee for the International Woolmark Prize in 2020.[2] de Saint Sernin joined Ann Demeulemeester as a creative director in February of 2023, debuting one collection before leaving in May of that same year.[3][4]
de Saint Sernin released the label’s now signature leather eyelet briefs along with his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. While the piece initially struggled, they later gained significant popularity, largely due to social media.
Life
de Saint Sernin was born in Brussels, Belgium and moved to Paris at age 8. He grew up in the 16th arrondissement of Paris, which he recalls as a very conservative environment.[5] Before transitioning to fashion design, de Saint Sernin studied law. He studied womenswear at the Duperré School of Applied Arts, but was inspired to pursue menswear after accidentally trying on women's garments at a sample sale, noting its versatility on the male figure.[6][7] As a student, he worked with casting director Dominique Vinant.
After graduating, he interned at Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.[8] He then worked at Balmain under Olivier Rousteing, where he was in charge of textile embellishment. Following his departure from Balmain, he began designing his own pieces.[6]
de Saint Sernin currently resides in Paris. He is in a relationship with the label's image director and fashion model Ignacio Muñoz.[9]
He previously managed a now deleted Instagram account featuring curated sensual nudes to promote sex and body positivity.[10]
Career
After graduating from l’ESAA Duperré in 2013, de Saint Sernin interned at Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. He then began a career as the head of textile embellishment for Balmain.[2]
de Saint Sernin made his design debut with his Spring/Summer 2018 collection at Paris Fashion Week.[11] He was subsequently nominated for the LVMH prize.[1]
In 2020, de Saint Sernin was a finalist for the International Woolmark Prize.[2]
Ann Demeulemeester announced de Saint Sernin as its creative director in February 2023.[7] The designer unveiled the fall 2023 collection for Demeulemeester in March before stepping down from the role in May for undisclosed reasons.[4]
Select pieces by de Saint Sernin were showcased in the exhibition GENDERQUAKE: Liberation, Appropriation, Rejection at the SCAD Museum of Art from February to July of 2024.[12]
His 2024 Fall collection debuted at New York Fashion Week in partnership with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation.
de Saint Sernin featured as a guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring 2025 Couture collection, Le Naufrage."[13]
de Saint Sernin walked the runway at the end of his label's show at New York Fashion Week.
Style
Ludovic de Saint Sernin's self-described design style is genderless. Though officially a menswear brand, the label's designs have been modeled by both men and women. He is known for using his designs to explore themes of sexuality and queer identity. He has repeatedly stated that the label is an autobiographical coming-of-age story, drawing from his own experience as a gay man. The label's core themes are sex, queerness, and gendering.
The label heavily references gay culture of New York City of the 1970s and 1980s.[11][14] He has mentioned photographer Robert Mapplethorpe as an inspiration for his sensual style, BDSM motifs, and exploration of gay sexuality.[11] His Spring/Summer 2018 collection presentation featured models exchanging glances as they passed each other on the runway, a nod to cruising. Despite his affinity for queer culture of the past, de Saint Sernin aims to appeal to a modern queer customer with its gender inclusivity. de Saint Sernin's campaigns and runway shows often feature sparsely clothed models, emphasizing the label's sensual and erotic style.[15]
de Saint Sernin's aesthetic is also influenced by designers Peter Berlin and Alaïa, as well as the supermodel era of the 1990s.
de Saint Sernin's garments are elegant yet minimalistic, relying more on form, materials, and unconventional details over complex designs. Signature elements of the brand's style include leather, Swarovski Crystal mesh, cropped halter tops, eyelets, and lace-up closures.
References
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 "LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN". LVMH PRIZE. Retrieved 2025-08-04.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 "2020 International Woolmark Prize finalist Ludovic de Saint Sernin". www.woolmarkprize.com. Retrieved 2025-08-12.
- ↑ US, FashionNetwork com (2023-05-21). "Ludovic de Saint Sernin leaves Ann Demeulemeester". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 2026-05-15.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 Garcia-Furtado, Laia (2023-05-20). "Ludovic de Saint Sernin Out at Ann Demeulemeester After One Season". Vogue. Retrieved 2025-08-12.
- ↑ "Brand to Know: A Subversive Line Inspired by Mapplethorpe (Published 2017)". 2017-06-23. Retrieved 2025-08-12.
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 AnotherMan (2018-06-25). "The Designer Creating Clothes Infused with Sex and Queerness". AnotherMan. Retrieved 2025-08-04.
- ↑ 7.0 7.1 "DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT: Ludovic de Saint Sernin". ORB360. Retrieved 2025-08-05.
- ↑ "Ludovic de Saint Sernin | BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry". The Business of Fashion. 2024-09-23. Retrieved 2025-08-04.
- ↑ Toner, Paul (2022-11-14). "Dressing Up With Ludovic". 10 Magazine. Retrieved 2025-12-05.
- ↑ Nguyen, Long (2021-10-02). "Review of Ludovic de Saint Sernin". The Impression. Retrieved 2025-08-09.
- ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 "À la Fashion Week de New York, les tout petits slips de ce styliste français ont un message politique". Le HuffPost (in français). 2024-02-12. Retrieved 2026-05-15.
- ↑ "GENDERQUAKE: Liberation, Appropriation, Rejection | SCAD Museum of Art". www.scadmoa.org. Retrieved 2025-08-05.
- ↑ Verner, Amy (2025-01-29). "Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2025 Couture Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 2025-08-09.
- ↑ "NYFW: All Hail Ludovic De Saint Sernin's Debut". Grazia. Retrieved 2025-12-05.
- ↑ US, FashionNetwork com (2022-02-15). "Ludovic de Saint Sernin shocks web with new ad campaign". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 2026-05-15.
External links
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