Kala cotton

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Kala cotton (also called Wagad cotton) is an indigenous, rain-fed cotton grown in the Kutch region of Gujarat, India. It is cultivated with minimal external inputs and is known for resilience in arid conditions. Since the 2000s, NGOs and designers have supported a revival of Kala cotton for handloom textiles and sustainable fashion.[1][2]

Overview

Kala cotton is a short-to-medium staple desi (native) variety historically grown in eastern Kutch. It is typically cultivated without irrigation and with low chemical inputs, making it suited to semi-arid farming systems and smallholder contexts.[3][1]

Revival

Following the 2001 Kutch earthquake, local groups developed a supply chain linking farmers, ginners, spinners and weavers. Khamir’s Kala Cotton Initiative helped brand and market the fibre from around 2010–11, alongside organic certification efforts.[4][1]

Production and markets

Reports in 2025 noted a wider ecosystem of farmers and weavers in Kutch and growing demand from designers in India and abroad. Exports and artisan-led value chains have expanded, supported by state and civil-society initiatives.[5]

Characteristics

Kala cotton fibre is generally coarser and shorter-stapled than many hybrid and long-staple varieties, which influences yarn counts and typical uses (handloom and heavier weaves). Its low-input cultivation and pest tolerance are cited as agronomic advantages in dry regions.[3]

References

  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 Rahman, Azera Parveen (8 July 2019). "Kutch's Wagad or Kala cotton: Back from the (almost) dead". Mongabay-India. Retrieved 20 September 2025.
  2. "Kala Cotton". Khamir. Retrieved 20 September 2025.
  3. 3.0 3.1 "Kala Cotton: A Sustainable Alternative" (PDF). The IAFOR Research Archive. 27 July 2018. Retrieved 20 September 2025.
  4. "Kala Cotton Initiative". Khamir. Retrieved 20 September 2025.
  5. "From Kutch to couture: How Gujarat's kala cotton made a comeback". The Times of India. August 2025. Retrieved 20 September 2025.

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