Igor Svergun

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Igor Svergun
Personal information
Native nameСвергун Ігор Миколайович
Birth nameСвергун, Игорь Николаевич
Full nameSvergun Igor Nikolaevich
CitizenshipUSSR → Ukraine
Born10.02.1966
Korocha, Belgorod Oblast, USSR
Died23.06.2013
Nanga Parbat, Pakistan
Resting placeCementary No.13, Kharkiv, Ukraine
GPS coordinates: 50.02182905900512, 36.27845988792096
OccupationSoviet and Ukranian climber, mountain guide, rescuer
Years active1984 - 2013
Spouse(s)Tamara Svergun
Sport
CountryUSSR → Ukraine
SportMountaineer
RankUSSR Master of Sports in mountaineering (1989), USSR Snow Leopard award, USSR master of sports at the international level (1991), instructor-methodologist of the 3rd category.
ClubKharkiv Alpclub Ukraine,
7 Summits Club United States,

Igor Svergun (February 10, 1966, Korocha, Belgorod Oblast,[1] USSR - on the night of June 23, 2013, Nanga Parbat, terrorist attack[2]) - Soviet and Ukrainian climber, USSR Master of Sports in mountaineering (1989), USSR Snow Leopard award, USSR master of sports at the international level (1991), instructor-methodologist of the 3rd category.

Beginning of Sports Career

Igor's passion for mountaineering sparked during his school years under the guidance of his mentor, Georgiy Kardash.[3], a dedicated physical education teacher. At the age of 18, Igor wholeheartedly embraced mountaineering as his lifelong pursuit. He began his journey by conquering Semenov-Bashi, a peak of 3602m, and went on to achieve remarkable ascents of numerous eight-thousanders. One of his notable accomplishments came at the age of 24 when he successfully summited Lhotse in the Himalayas, marking a significant milestone in his mountaineering careerports Achievements.

Sports Achievements

Igor Svergun's Best ascent include[4]:

  • 1990: Climbed Lhotse via the South Face, reaching an altitude of 8200 meters.
  • 1991: Completed the traverse of Manaslu with Viktor Pastukh and Alexey Makarov.
  • 1992: Summited Everest's South Peak at 8790 meters.
  • 1994: Conquered Dhaulagiri.
  • 1996: Ascended Annapurna via Bonington Route, alongside Sergey Bershov and Sergey Kovalev, as part of the Ukrainian State Sports Committee expedition led by Mstyslav Gorbenko.
  • Shishapangma (alpine style).
  • Other notable ascents include:
    • 1998: Ama Dablam.
    • 1998: Pumori.
    • 2004: Cho Oyu.
    • 2005, 2006: Everest via the Northeast Ridge.[5]

In 1999, during the "Ukraine - Everest-99" expedition, Igor took part in one of the most challenging rescue operations, transporting climber V. Horbach from an altitude of 8600m to the summit[6].

In 2008, as part of an expedition organized by the Kharkiv Regional Mountaineering Club, Svergun successfully climbed Gasherbrum II (with Sergey Bershov and Alexey Bokov) via the classic route. Before the ascent, they erected a memorial plaque at the mountain's base to honor two Ukrainian climbers: Viktor Pastukh from Kharkiv and Gennadiy Vasilenko from Crimea, who perished in 1996 during an attempt to conquer Shishapangma.

Igor Svergun twice summited Everest[5] and reached many of the world's eight-thousanders. In 1990, he participated in the Soviet expedition led by A. Shevchenko, climbing Lhotse's Main Peak via the South Face, a route hailed by Reinhold Messner as the route of the 21st century. According to Igor[7]:

"This ascent became my calling card. Whenever I meet fellow climbers, mentioning 'Lhotse' elicits genuine admiration. The climb was incredibly challenging. We weren't prepared for everything we encountered. The books tell a different story."[7]

Among his other achievements are 25 routes of the 6th category of difficulty[8]. Igor Svergun's attitude towards mountains is best illustrated by his words:

"For a mountaineer, the mountains are the only place on Earth where they feel comfortable and a sense of their own purpose on this planet..."[9]

Igor Svergun also worked with youth at the Kharkiv Alpсlub, served as a coach for various expeditions, and led commercial expeditions. In his later years, he held the position of senior coach at the Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation's Kharkiv branch.

Tragedy and Passing

In June 2013, Igor Svergun led an international expedition to Nanga Parbat[7]. The expedition began on June 6 and was scheduled to conclude on July 17, 2013. However, on the night of June 23, terrorists attacked the base camp located at an altitude of approximately 4200m in Gilgit-Baltistan[10][11], Pakistan[2]. [4] A total of 10 mountaineers from different countries lost their lives, including Igor Svergun and two other climbers from Kharkiv[12].

The responsibility for the killings was claimed by the Pakistani militant group Jundullah. Later, an affiliated movement called Tehrik-i-Taliban Pakistan also claimed involvement.

The funerals took place on June 30, 2013, in Kharkiv, Ukraine, at Cemetery No.13 (Pushkins'ka St, 108, Kharkiv, Kharkivs'ka oblast, Ukraine). More than 5000 people attended the farewell ceremony, including mountaineers from around the world[13].

Memory

  • The annual Ukraine Cup in mountaineering (discipline: mountaineering technique) in memory of Igor Svergun invites boys, girls, adults, and veterans to participate. The prize fund of the Cup is formed from sponsorship contributions by Igor Svergun's friends. Years of the competition: 2013, 2014[14], 2015[15], 2016[16], 2017[17], 2018[18], 2019[19], 2020[20], 2021[21]. In 2022 not held due to Russia's military invasion of Ukraine.
  • An expedition to Mount Elbrus in August 2013, in memory of Kharkiv residents who tragically died on June 23, 2013[22], in Pakistan, with the participation of Igor Svergun's spouse Tamara and their son Yegor Svergun[23][24].
  • A memorial plaque in honor of I.N. Svergun was installed on September 29, 2014, on the building of Dmitry Kromsky Secondary School (Korocha, Proletarskaya Street, 39, Belgorod, Russia). The opening ceremony was attended by the mountaineer's mother, Valentina Anisimova (Svergun), and the plaque was unveiled by Igor Svergun's friend, Vasily Simonov.[1]

Awards:

  • The Order ”For Courage“, USSR (1990).
  • The Order ”For merits" 3-d grade, Ukraine(1996)[25].
  • The Order ”For Courage" 3-d class. Ukraine (1999)[26].

References

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 "В Белгородской области открыли мемориальную доску в честь альпиниста, убитого исламскими террористами". go31.ru - Сайт города Белгорода (in русский). Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 "2013 Nanga Parbat massacre", Wikipedia, 2023-05-29, retrieved 2023-06-09
  3. ↑ "Через перевал в вечность. Желание преодолеть себя стало смыслом жизни для Игоря Свергуна". korocha31.ru (in русский). Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 Haroon, Asad (2013-06-23). "Svergun Igor the top climber of Ukraine was among killed climbers and tourists in Pakistan". Dispatch News Desk. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 "List of Mount Everest summiters by frequency", Wikipedia, 2023-06-08, retrieved 2023-06-09
  6. ↑ "«Украина - Эверест-99» / Люди и Горы. Очерки / Mountain.RU". www.mountain.ru. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 ""В книгах - все по-другому", - Игорь Свергун". Новости Харькова | news.kh.ua (in русский). Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  8. ↑ Zakharov, P. P.; Zhemchuzhnikov, Yu A.; Marynov, A. I. (2006). Al'piniszm : entsiklopedicheskii slovar'. Library Genesis. Moscow : Izdatel'stvo TVT. ISBN 978-5-98724-030-4.
  9. ↑ "Игорь Свергун, альпинист, в гостях у ХарьковТуриста (анонс)". xt.ht. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  10. ↑ ""Nanga Parbat attack: Taliban say new faction killed climbers"". BBC News. pp. 2–3.
  11. ↑ ""Nanga Parbat: 'Taliban mastermind' held over climber murders"". BBC News.
  12. ↑ "Massacre on Nanga Parbat". HimalayaMasala. 2013-07-29. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  13. ↑ "На похоронах расстрелянных харьковских альпинистов не стихал плач жен и матерей". sport.segodnya.ua (in русский). 2022-07-11. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  14. ↑ "ИТОГИ альпинистского, скалолазного и ледолазного сезона 2014 и планы на 2015 год!". 4sport.ua. 2015. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  15. ↑ "ФАіС: Новини > Годовщина памяти погибших в Пакистане альпинистов". fais.org.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  16. ↑ "ФАіС: Альпінізм > Кубок памяти И.Свергуна. Результаты". fais.org.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  17. ↑ "Кубок Украины по технике альпинизма. Подробности. | Альпклуб". alpclub.com.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  18. ↑ "Кубок Украины по технике альпинизма памяти Игоря Свергуна. Финал. | Альпклуб". www.alpclub.com.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  19. ↑ "Скалолазный фестиваль "КУБОК ПАМЯТИ". | Альпклуб". alpclub.com.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  20. ↑ "В Харькове состоится Кубок Украины по технике альпинизма памяти Игоря Свергуна". 4sport.ua. 2020. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  21. ↑ "Кубок Украины по технике альпинизма памяти Игоря Свергуна. | Альпклуб". alpclub.com.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  22. ↑ "В память о погибших коллегах харьковские альпинисты поднимутся на Эльбрус | Вечерний Харьков". vecherniy.kharkov.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  23. ↑ "Украинские альпинисты поднимутся на Эльбрус в память о погибших в Пакистане". www.unian.net (in русский). Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  24. ↑ "В память о погибших коллегах харьковские альпинисты поднимутся на Эльбрус | Вечерний Харьков". vecherniy.kharkov.ua. Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  25. ↑ "Про нагородження відзнакою Президента України - орденом "За заслуги"". Офіційний вебпортал парламенту України (in українська). Retrieved 2023-06-09.
  26. ↑ "Про відзначення нагородами України учасників Першої Української національної експедиції на Еверест". Офіційний вебпортал парламенту України (in українська). Retrieved 2023-06-09.

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