Chris Jones (mountain climber)
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Chris Jones | |
|---|---|
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| Born | 1939 United Kingdom |
| Nationality | British/American |
| Known for | Alpine Climber |
Chris Jones (born 1939? [1]) is a British-American rock climber, photographer, author, and alpinist. He is known for establishing difficult and influential, alpine-style climbs during 1965-1980 in the Andes and Canadian Rockies. He has been described "one of England’s greatest climbers". [2] [3] He is the author of Climbing in North America, one of the earliest documentations of the history of climbing in North America from the 1800s to the 1970s.[4] [5]
Jones was an active participant in what many consider to be the Golden Age[6] of climbing in the United States including living at Camp 4 in Yosemite during the summer of 1967 [7]. Jones was part of the third ascent of Fitz Roy with Yvon Chouinard, Doug Tompkins, and Lito Tejada-Flores in 1968 described in the book, Climbing Fitz Roy, 1968: Reflections on the Lost Photos of the Third Ascent [8] [2]. This climb was also documented in the film, Mountain of Storms by Lito Tejada-Flores. [9] [10]
His 1974 ascent of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies with George Lowe was considered some of the finest mountaineering of the era and was the subject of the cover article of an Ascent magazine issue. [11] [12] [13]
Early life
Jones immigrated to the United States in 1965 at age 25. [14]
Notable climbs
- 1965 Bonatti Pillar - partner of first American ascent with George Lowe of the Bonatti Pillar on the Aiguille du Dru, Mont Blanc massif, France.[15]
- 1967 Serenity Crack, Yosemite, USA (5.10d) - first free ascent with Tom Higgins
- 1967 North Face, Mount Assiniboine, Canadian Rockies - first ascent with Yvon Chouinard and Joe Faint[16]
- 1967 North Face, East Summit, Mount Edith Cavell, Canadian Rockies - first ascent with Yvon Chouinard and Joe Faint [16]
- 1968 Northeast Face of Yerupaja, Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru - first ascent July 27-31, 1968 with Paul Dix, Roger Hart, and Dean Caldwell[17]
- 1968 Southwest Ridge aka California Route, Cerro Fitzroy, Patagonia First ascent of route with Doug Tompkins, Lito Tejada-Flores, Yvon Chouinard and Dick Dorworth, 3rd ascent of peak.[18]
- 1970 North Face, Mount Columbia (Canada), Canadian Rockies - first ascent with Gray Thompson[19]
- 1971 North Face, Mount Kitchener, Canadian Rockies - new route with Jeff Lowe and Graham Thompson.[20]
- 1973 Deltaform Ice Couloir, Deltaform Mountain, Canadian Rockies with George Lowe[21]
- 1973 South Face, Devils Thumb (2767m) - First Ascent, Coast Mountains, Alaska with George Lowe and Lito Tejada-Flores.[22]
- 1974 North Face (VI 5.10 A4), North Twin Peak (3631m) - First Ascent, Canadian Rockies, with widely regarded as some of the best alpinism of the era.[11][23]
- 1980 Turret Mountain, The Ramparts, Canadian Rockies with Brock Wagstaff, first ascent of new route[24]
References
- ↑ Roper, Steve; Steck, Allen (2016), The Best of Ascent, California: Sierra Club Books, p. 378
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 Martin, Joy (2021), "From Midas's Touch to A Green Thumb: Remembering Doug Tompkins", The Climbing Zine, Colorado, USA, retrieved September 20, 2023
- ↑ Dorworth, Dick (2022), "CLIMBING AND MINDFULNESS: RUMINATIONS FROM THE PAST", Adventure Sports Magazine, California, USA, retrieved September 20, 2023
- ↑ Jones, Chris (1976), Climbing in North America, California: University of California
- ↑ Donovan, Mark (1976), "A MAN WHO HAS BEEN TO THE TOP VIEWS THE CHILLING BEAUTY OF MOUNTAINS", Sports Illustrated Vault, New York, USA, retrieved September 20, 2023
- ↑ "Valley Uprising documentary shows the extreme rock climbing revolution", Sports Illustrated, New York, USA, vol. 15, 2015, retrieved June 9, 2023
- ↑ "Yosemite's Wild Days (in pictures)", Climbing, 2022, retrieved September 20, 2023
- ↑ Chouinard, Yvon; Dorworth, Dick; Jones, Chris; Tejada-Flores, Lito (2013), Climbing Fitz Roy, 1968: Reflections on the Lost Photos of the Third Ascent, Ventura, California: Patagonia}
- ↑ Tejada-Flores, Lito (director) (2018). Mountain of Storms (Documentary). Argentina: Collinson, Robert.
- ↑ Dorworth, Dick (2022), "Lessons From 30 Days Spent Stuck in a Snow Cave", Climbing, Colorado, USA, vol. 15, retrieved September 20, 2023
- ↑ 11.0 11.1 Blanchard, Barry (2002). "1974: The North Face of North Twin". American Alpine Journal. 44 (76). Retrieved February 1, 2019.
- ↑ Jones, Chris (1974). "North Twin North Face". Ascent. Colorado.
- ↑ Pullan, Brandon (2016), The Bold and the Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Canada: Rocky Mountain Books
- ↑ Roper, Steve; Steck, Allen (2016), The Best of Ascent, California: Sierra Club Books, p. 378
- ↑ Lowe, George (1966), "EUROPE, ALPS, PETIT DRU", American Alpine Journal, American Alpine Club
- ↑ 16.0 16.1 Jones, Christopher A.G. (1968). "Candian Rockies North Faces". American Alpine Journal. Retrieved 9 June 2023.
- ↑ Jones, Chris (1969). "Yerupaja — The Amazon Face". American Alpine Journal. Retrieved 9 June 2023.
- ↑ Tompkins, Doug (1969). H. Adams Carter (ed.). "Fitz Roy 1968". American Alpine Journal. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA: American Alpine Club. 16 (43): 263–269.
- ↑ Jones, Chris (1971). "Mount Columbia from the North". American Alpine Journal. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA: American Alpine Club. 17 (2).
- ↑ Jones, Chris (1972). "The North Face of Mount Kitchener". American Alpine Journal. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA: American Alpine Club. 18 (1).
- ↑ Jones, Chris (1974). "NORTH AMERICA, CANADA, CANADIAN ROCKIES, DELTAFORM MOUNTAIN, NORTH FACE". American Alpine Journal. 19 (1). Retrieved 19 September 2023.
- ↑ Lowe, George (1974). "DEVIL'S THUMB". American Alpine Journal. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA: American Alpine Club. 19 (1).
- ↑ Lowe, George (1975). "The North Face of North Twin". American Alpine Journal. 17 (49). Retrieved February 1, 2019.
- ↑ Wagstaff, Brock (1980). "Turret Mountain and Mount Geikie, The Ramparts". American Alpine Journal. 22 (1). Retrieved 19 September 2023.
External links
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